« Manu presse / Carré bleu », Paris, 1985 : Pain, cuisine et gourmandises, avec Ginette Mathiot, Albin Michel, Paris, 1989 : Le Guide Poilâne des traditions vivantes et marchandes, Robert Laffont, Paris, 1998 : Guide Poilâne des mille artisans : Des métiers du papier, du tissu, du bois, du métal, etc., Le Cherche midi, collection « Guides », Paris, 1999 : Les Meilleures Tartines de Lionel Poilâne, photogr. There are also bakeries operating in the Max Poilâne SAS company, covered in a separate Max Poilâne section. 2014. ‘More people will die from hit-or-miss eating than from hit-and-run driving.’ — Duncan Hines (American restaurant critic. Rushton, Susie. 26 April 2017. The Carnivore’s Manifesto: Eating Well, Eating Responsibly, and Eating Meat. Dromard, Thiébault. Its location, near to Orly airport, makes it ideally situated. Anyone looking for it to be solely a bread recipe book may be disappointed, though, some reviewers have cautioned: it contains only about ten actual recipes for making bread. A daughter upholds the traditions of France’s premier baking dynasty. As of 2019, the La société Poilâne SA company has “a team of more than 200 men and women who bake and sell 5,000 loaves (and counting) of our breads and baked goods every day.” [1]Poilâne, Apollonia. Maison mère : Paris - 87, rue Brancion - Tél. “My philosophy is a small array of breads, each with its own use. The son of farmers from Normandy, he had wanted to be an architect, but his parents couldn’t afford to send him to university. In the 1970s, Max Poilâne had a falling out with his brother Lionel, four years younger than him. cit. cit., page 37. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_7').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_7', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); As of 2020, Paris stores operating in the La société Poilâne SA company were: In the Cherche-Midi store the actual bakery for the store is in the basement. January 1995. “Every morning, Apollonia receives twenty-four loaves of sourdough. cit. 21 April 2008. This allows two bakers at a time to work in each bakehouse. Each is labelled with the name of a baker from the Bièvres manufactory. “A sort of idol who did … daily create men by a sort of manufactory operation” (Jonathan Swift, A Tale of a Tub, 1704).” The term in modern times has now been used as well by other bread bakeries, such as the Tartine Bakery in San Francisco (founded 2002.) 2014. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_16').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_16', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); Everyday, twenty-four loaves, one from each oven, tagged with the name of the bakers, is sent to Poilâne at Rue du Cherche-Midi in town for a quality control review at headquarters. Collins, Lauren. Het bijzondere van dit brood is het rijsproces; een deel van het oude deeg wordt toegevoegd aan het nieuwe deeg en zet dit proces in gang. See separate entry on “Pain Poilâne.”. MAX POILANE | 15 followers on LinkedIn. New York: Fortune Magazine. Het deeg krijgt alle tijd om langzaam op een natuurlijke manier te rijzen in gevlochten manden. cit. You can also buy them by the bag. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_24').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_24', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); The building Poilâne set up in had originally been part of a convent, and did have in it an oven from the 1700s. Le pain Poilâne a perdu son mitron. Maison Poilâne. 2 November 2002. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_36').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_36', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); Shortly after his death, the official paper of the National Front, the National-Hebdo, published an article on him saying “Goodbye to one of ours.” One of the key “supportive gestures” that a National Front official pointed to was Poilâne having donated pastries one Christmas to a children’s group that turned out to have a remote association with the party. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_49').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_49', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); Though criticized by the other Poilane company for this different taste, it perhaps does not contradict one of Apollonia’s reputed bread proverbs, “Bread should not steal the quality of the meal.” [50]Collins, Lauren, op. If you’re a bread lover, a Francophile, or both, then you’ve heard of Poilâne. Slagerij De Leeuw Amsterdam | slagerij, traiteur & delicatessen, ONLINE WEBSHOP CLOSED ➤ t/m 12/1 alleen via slagerij, Amuses & voorgerechten divers & vegetarisch, Pain Max Poilâne walnotenbrood (op bestelling). Poilâne, 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris 75006, September 2008. cit. Funding to enable continued research and updating on this web site comes via ads and some affiliate links. He also opened lunch places he called “Cuisines de Bar” (since renamed to “Comptoirs Poilâne”) and an established an international retail network supplied by bread out of the bakery in Bièvres. Poilâne: The Secrets of the World Famous Bread Bakery. Together, my parents created a spectacular circular space housing twenty-four wood-burning ovens…” [10]Poilâne, Apollonia, op. Il a aussi participé financièrement aux campagnes de Prochoix…” ProChoix newsletter November 2002. “My grandfather, Pierre Poilâne, opened the bakery in 1932, when he was just twenty-three, at 8 rue du Cherche-Midi in the Saint-Germain-des-Prés district of Paris. Lionel married Irena Borzena Ustjanowski, a Polish American designer, architect, and gallery owner. [31]Sancton, Tom, op. 21 April 2008. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_46').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_46', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); At one point, Max reputedly let it be known publicly that he thought his brother Lionel was a National Front member, an assertion that would not have smoothed relations any with the other branch of the Poilâne family: “Le frère de Lionel Poilâne a assuré que ce dernier avait bel et bien été membre du Front.” [47]Forcari, Christophe, op. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_11').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_11', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); [12]Oxford says the term ‘manufactory’ has been around in English since at least 1630, though it is now obsolete: “Servile and manufactory men that should serve the uses of the world in the handicrafts” (Henry Lord, Banians and Persees, 70, 1630). “At the time, Lionel Poilane knew nothing about the political leanings of this association,” wrote Caroline Fourest and Fiametta Venner, co-authors of the Guide to Front National sponsors, certain that the baker was ensnared.” [35]Forcari, Christophe. They are not authentic, he often pointed out; they were introduced to France by an Austrian ambassador in the mid-19th century.” [51]Rourke, Mary, op. Poilâne, Apollonia. He expanded, opening a second Paris bakery in 1974 [32]Sancton, Tom, op. New York: Houghton Mifflin. des Frères Lumière ) [48]Accessed April 2020 at https://www.max-Poilâne.fr/ jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_48').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_48', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); The Max Poilâne version of the famous miche Poilâne has a slightly less acidic taste — deliberately so, they say: “We have a less acid taste to our bread. cit. In the afternoon other trucks will take boxed loaves to Charles de Gaulle airport; from there FedEx planes deliver them overseas within 24 to 48 hours. 21 April 2008. That being said, the book title does say it is about “secrets”, and it does appear to deliver on that: it contains a great deal of advice on technique and heritage knowledge garnered over three generations of family baking, and lifts the curtain on the daily operations of the bakery. Thanks to the thick door and the massive refrigerator built into the pastry room’s far wall, it’s much cooler in there, perfect for handling buttery doughs.” [7]Poilâne, Apollonia, op. [30]Agnew, Harriet. [46]”le prénom Max doit précéder Poilâne sur tous les documents de référence, emballage ou affiche commerciale «sur la même ligne, dans les mêmes caractères de même dimension, de même couleur et de même tonalité». ). Apollonia Poilâne. VERS PAIN MAX POILÂNE UIT PARIJS Rechtstreekse import van vers pain Max Poilâne uit Parijs.Dit grijsbruingekleurde oerbrood heeft een dikke, gouden korst en is compact van structuur. When an artist couldn’t pay, my grandfather arranged a trade: bread for art—provided the paintings or drawings featured Poilâne in some way.” [27]ibid. December 6, 2011 2:27pm. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_41').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_41', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); Of her time at Harvard, she remembers that she had a hard time finding decent bread in Boston. Lebovitz, David. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_37').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_37', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); In practice, Poilâne appears to have the opposite of an ideal National Front supporter, having actively supported causes that would be anathema to the far right political party by donating sizable sums of money to both pro-choice as well as lesbian and gay groups. The ovens don’t have thermometers: the bakers learn how to gauge the correct heat themselves. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_47').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_47', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); Max and his wife Sophie had three children: Mylène, Sophie and Julien. Whilst we waited to be served, I was shocked to get the paper bag (with no pastry inside) that I was holding snatched out of my hand and was reprimanded in front of everyone in … 21 November 2002. jQuery('#footnote_plugin_tooltip_42507_1_52').tooltip({ tip: '#footnote_plugin_tooltip_text_42507_1_52', tipClass: 'footnote_tooltip', effect: 'fade', predelay: 0, fadeInSpeed: 200, delay: 400, fadeOutSpeed: 200, position: 'top right', relative: true, offset: [10, 10], }); Her views appear to have evolved. One representative loaf of every batch, identified by the first name of the head baker, was placed on a tray cart and presented for inspection. Apollonia Poilâne inherits a famous Paris bakery. But the real innovation here is more in the logistical organization than in mechanization: The only machines at the Bièvres plant are the automatic kneading bins.
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